Way Down Yonder on the Li'l Tallapoosa
I've been struggling for weeks now to compose a post that adequately encompasses the long weekend I spent with my wife and friends recently in rural Alabama. Now, when I say "rural," I don't mean "rural" in the Maryland sense, where McMansions are swiftly eroding the farmland, and where one is never more than a 20-min. drive from the multiplex and the Panera. No, when I say we were in rural Alabama, I mean that the place where we stayed was a miles down a dirt road, with little but vast, creeping fields of kudzu between us and the nearest gas station a couple of zip codes away.
After racking my brain trying to come up with a way to adequately summarize my experience in one of the deeper parts of the Deep South, I've come to the conclusion that I'm not up to the task. Either I write the Cliff's Notes or I write 'War and Peace;' there's no middle ground. So here are some of the things I've been telling friends, family, and coworkers, when they ask "what in the world were you doing in rural Alabama this summer?"
Among other things, I: visited a chicken farm, went four-wheelin' in the mud in a Dodge Caravan, saw a dead armadillo, drove past Booger Hollow Road, tried my first crawdad, listened to my friends outsing a lightning storm, shared a smoke with a guy in a rebel flag doo-rag, drank muscadine wine, ate at a roadside barbecue stand, did yoga on the front porch at sunrise, discussed the decline of the African-American Sacred Harp tradition, made several trips to and from Lower Cane Creek Primitive Baptist Church, listened to impromptu mini-lectures on astrology and homeopathic remedies, talked about pockets of Yankee sympathizers in Alabama during the height of the Civil War (or "the Late Unpleasantness," depending on your perspective), learned about the now-defunct custom of dropping live turkeys from the second floor of the courthouse in LaFayette (pronounced "luh-FEHT"), and heard all sorts of startling things about Nathan Bedford Forrest and the organization he founded, the one that's abbreviated by repeating the eleventh letter of the Roman alphabet three times.
I also attended the funeral home visitation for a singer who died unexpectedly the day of our arrival. She wasn't someone I knew in any way well; I had sung across the hollow square from her a couple of times, is all. But the singing we conjured for her and her family, about 50 of us packed in a little anteroom next to the room where she was laid out for viewing, was just about the richest, most reverent, most powerful singing of my experience. As we sang for our departed fellow singer, I looked around the room at the people around me. I saw young people and old people, Northerners and Southerners, black folks and white folks, liberals and conservatives, atheists and Pentecostals, their voices all raised in hymns of praise and lamentation. Beyond them I saw the family members of the deceased, many of whom had never heard this music before. Some of them hugged me afterward, astonished that folks would drive all the way from Maryland and sing for someone they barely knew. And I thought: this is how I want it to be when I die. This is what we do for each other. This is, to quote Raymond Carver, what we talk about when we talk about love.
One afternoon, my friend with whom we were staying took the group of us down to the Little Tallapoosa River, its waters depleted from the drought that has scorched the southeast for months. After chasing off the cows that, like us, were trying to beat the 100-plus degree heat and stifling humidity with a dip in the river, we waded into the muddy water and lay ourselves down. Our host's cousin drove up on a John Deere ATV, bearing locally grown, orange-colored watermelons. As I spit the seeds out into the drowsy current, I found myself thinking of my father, how he had spent most of his young adulthood trying to find a way out of the South, its poverty, its religion, its culture. I wondered what he would think of myperiodic excursions to Georgia and Alabama, of the bonds I have developed with the sort of people he fought so hard for get away from. I skipped a chunk of watermelon rind across the suface of the water and figured that wherever he is, he's probably getting a kick out of the irony of the whole thing.
I rose and toweled myself off. The sun was just beginning its slow, red decline, the air shimmering with heat and moisture. In a few hours, we would be kicked out of a seafood restaurant by armed Randolph County sherriff's deputies. The South was beginning to grow on me.























